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Investors · beauty, wellness and aesthetics

For investors in beauty, wellness and aesthetics businesses

This page is for investors, family offices and acquirers looking at a beauty, wellness or aesthetics business, and for founders and leadership teams preparing to meet them.

It sets out the commercial signals that show how a business in these sectors makes its money: margin by product and by channel rather than in total, how often customers come back, and how much of the business depends on one hero product, one founder, one retailer or one practitioner. It is a commercial view only. It is not investment advice, it says nothing about valuation, and it does not recommend backing any business.

For a founder, the useful preparation is to assemble those figures before anyone asks, and to mark clearly where the information is incomplete. For an investor, the useful job is different: testing whether the figures presented reconcile with each other, and what they still leave unknown.

The commercial signals, and what to investigate

SignalWhat to ask forWhat to investigate
Margin by product and channelContribution per product line and per channel, after discounts and channel costsWhether it reconciles to the accounts, and how shared costs were allocated
Repeat ratePaid repeat purchases or attended appointments by monthly cohort, over a stated periodRepeat and new-customer revenue read together, with each product's use cycle in mind
Hero dependenceRevenue and contribution share of the top product or treatment over timeWhat happens to the range's contribution if that line slows
Retailer or channel concentrationRevenue and contribution by account and by channelHow much depends on one account's ranging or promotion decisions
Founder dependenceWhat the founder personally sells, delivers and decidesWhich of those would change if she stepped back, and at what cost
Practitioner dependenceBookings and rebooking by named practitioner, and where client records sitHow bookings behaved when a practitioner was away or left
Promotion shareRevenue sold on discount or offer, by monthWhat sells at full price, and whether repeat purchases also need an offer
Structure under the growthWho owns which decisions, with the dated plans for recent launches or changesWhere decisions waited, and why

Several of these come from the accounts and sales data. The harder ones need records and conversations as well.

Margin by product and channel

An aggregate margin can conceal differences between products and channels in either direction: a strong channel carrying a weak one, or one or two lines carrying the range. Stock tied up in a long tail is a separate cash question, not a margin one.

A founder works the allocation through using the method in which products and customers actually make money. The investor's job is to check the work. Does the product and channel contribution add back to the reported gross margin? Which costs were allocated, such as retailer support, discounts and fulfilment, and which were left in overheads? Would a different allocation change which lines look profitable? A margin presented without its method is a figure to ask about rather than rely on.

Founder dependence: the face, the diary and the decisions

Three dependencies are worth examining separately, because each would change something different if the founder stepped back.

If the founder is the face of the marketing, compare enquiries or sales that came through founder-led content and appearances with those that came through other routes, allowing for differences in exposure and offers. What has to change when the founder's face built the brand covers how a brand builds alongside her, and that work takes time and founder attention. If she is the main practitioner, separate the bookings clients requested with her by name from bookings simply allocated to her, and check whether other suitable appointments go unused. If decisions depend on her, ask for one recurring decision, who makes it now, and who could make it with defined authority. Each answer comes with a cost in handover, training or founder time, and that cost belongs in the plan.

Practitioner dependence in clinics

In aesthetics and wellness clinics, bookings can depend heavily on individual practitioners. Repeat bookings with one practitioner can reflect preference, her availability, or a treatment only she offers, so concentration alone does not show which.

The more telling evidence is what happened when a practitioner was away or left. Did clients accept a suitable alternative when one was offered, wait for their usual practitioner, or not rebook? Where the clinic has no comparable absence or departure in its history, the dependence is uncertain and should be treated that way. Central client records, a house standard of service and introductions to a second practitioner can each reduce the exposure over time, at the cost of practitioner time and some clients' preference for continuity. The pattern is described in when patients follow the injector, not the clinic.

Structure under the growth

Structure is the signal least visible in a single set of figures, though the records show it once the right question is asked.

Take a product launch or clinic decision that slipped and trace it through its owner, the approvals it needed, the people available to do the work, and any outside dependency such as a manufacturer or landlord. The dated plan and the decision history separate unclear authority from too little capacity, changing requirements or a supplier. For each unresolved issue, establish what it does to capacity or margin, the work needed to address it, and who could deliver that work.

Kirsty Newman
Kirsty Newman
Gaia Gabiati
Gaia Gabiati

Who does the work, and on what evidence

Kirsty Newman leads this work. Across a career that ran from L'Oréal Group and Coty to startups as they scaled, she has run seven-figure P&Ls and had direct engagement in venture capital funding and expansion, and she spent four years running an aesthetics clinic. Where the business is a clinic or studio, Gaia Gabiati adds the operator's view, having managed a multi-site group of luxury aesthetics clinics.

A commercial read is only as good as its access, so the scope sets out which records, systems and people it will see before it starts. For founders and leadership teams, Strategic Counsel includes preparing the narrative and the numbers before a funding conversation; Brand Intelligence covers the category, the competition and where the margin sits. Agreeing which records, systems and people the work will see is the first step, and a conversation with The Boutique Consultancy is where it starts.

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Questions investors and founders ask

Is a commercial review more useful before a deal or after it?

They do different jobs. Before a deal, a review describes how the business makes its money and where the commercial dependencies sit, which informs the conversation between the parties. After a deal, the same signals become the starting point for an operating plan for the new capital: which priorities come first, and who owns them. Which is useful depends on whether the question is understanding the business or running it.

Can the same commercial review serve the founder and the investor?

The questions are the same, but the loyalties differ, so it is worth agreeing at the start who the work is for and who sees the findings. A founder preparing for investors wants to find the weak points first and fix them. An investor wants an independent read. Which side is commissioning, and what both sides expect to receive, is the first thing to settle.

What kind of commercial support helps after investment?

Support that turns a small number of commercial priorities into owned work. For each priority, that means a named owner in the business, one measure defined the same way every month, and an agreed date to revisit it. Before additional operating spend goes into a product line or channel, check its contribution after its own costs, so new capital follows the lines that pay their way rather than the ones that look strongest.

A commercial read describes how the business makes its money and where it depends on one product, person, account or practitioner. It does not value the business, forecast a return or say whether to invest. Those decisions stay with the investor, and financial, legal and tax questions belong with the specialist advisers on each side. Its findings are a list of open commercial questions, each with the evidence behind it and what remains unknown.

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